Let's get into the Halloween season with a new friend, this is Pepo, a cozy baby pumpkin. He loves to romp about the fields, hence the little scarf so he doesn't get chilly.
I made Pepo as a nice pocket pal size but since amigurumi are very versatile that way you can try a different hook and yarn weight.
Materials used:
DK yarn in orange 20g, dark green, yellow for scarf, a bit of pink for the cheeks.
A bit of black embroidery thread for the mouth.
3 mm crochet hook, 6 mm safety eyes, stuffing and tapestry needle.
I made Pepo as a nice pocket pal size but since amigurumi are very versatile that way you can try a different hook and yarn weight.
Materials used:
DK yarn in orange 20g, dark green, yellow for scarf, a bit of pink for the cheeks.
A bit of black embroidery thread for the mouth.
3 mm crochet hook, 6 mm safety eyes, stuffing and tapestry needle.
The doll is going to measure 14 cm / 5,5 inch approx.
mr: magic ring
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
inc: increasedec: decrease
**: repeat to the end of round
(...) x...: repeat the inside of parentheses according to the indicated number, example: (...) x2
[...] total stitches at the end of round
BODY:
FIRST LEG:
R1: 6 sc in mr
R2: *1 sc, sc inc* [9]
R3-4: 9 sc [9]
Cut the yarn leaving a short tail.
SECOND LEG:
Repeat first leg from R1-4 but don't cut the yarn.
JOINING LEGS:
Continue from the second leg.
R5: 5 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc on the first stitch of the first leg to join, 8 sc on first leg, 3 sc on chains, 4 sc on second leg [24]
TORSO:
R6: 24 sc [24]
R7: 1 sc, (2 sc, sc inc) x3, 14 sc [27]
R8-9: 27 sc [27]
R10: *7 sc, sc dec* [24]
R11: 24 sc [24]
R12: *4 sc, sc dec* [20]
R13: 20 sc [20]
R14: *8 sc, sc dec* [18]
R15: 18 sc [18]
Cut yarn leaving enough for sewing.
FIRST LEG:
R1: 6 sc in mr
R2: *1 sc, sc inc* [9]
R3-4: 9 sc [9]
Cut the yarn leaving a short tail.
SECOND LEG:
Repeat first leg from R1-4 but don't cut the yarn.
JOINING LEGS:
Continue from the second leg.
R5: 5 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc on the first stitch of the first leg to join, 8 sc on first leg, 3 sc on chains, 4 sc on second leg [24]
TORSO:
R6: 24 sc [24]
R7: 1 sc, (2 sc, sc inc) x3, 14 sc [27]
R8-9: 27 sc [27]
R10: *7 sc, sc dec* [24]
R11: 24 sc [24]
R12: *4 sc, sc dec* [20]
R13: 20 sc [20]
R14: *8 sc, sc dec* [18]
R15: 18 sc [18]
Cut yarn leaving enough for sewing.
ARMS:
Don't stuff.
Make two.
R1: 6 sc in mr
R2-4: 6 sc [6]
Cut yarn leaving enough for sewing.
Sew arms at the sides of the body between R14-15.
Don't stuff.
Make two.
R1: 6 sc in mr
R2-4: 6 sc [6]
Cut yarn leaving enough for sewing.
Sew arms at the sides of the body between R14-15.
HEAD:
We are going to be working all of the head only on the back loops, so for each row you'll place your stitches on the loop that is farthest from you.
Leave a long tail at the beginning of the chain.
17 ch
R1: 2 sc, 12 hdc, 2 sc [16]
R2-18: 1 ch, turn, 2 sc, 12 hdc, 2 sc [16]
R19: 1 ch, turn, 16 sc [16]
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail.
We are going to place the eyes, look at your rectangle with the beginning and end tails upward so we know that's the top, the first eye will be between R8-9 and the second one between R11-12, counting 9 stitches from the the top (where the tails are) you'll place them between the 9th and 10th stitch.
Now, with the tail from the end, sew together the starting chain and last row. Once we've done that, we are going to close the bottom gap. For that we'll need to weave the tail all around going into every other row, pull to close. If there is still a small hole after closure don't worry, it doesn't matter. Secure this thread and hide it.
Stuff the piece nicely but not too much, and then with the tail we have left close the top gap as we did for the bottom.
We are going to be working all of the head only on the back loops, so for each row you'll place your stitches on the loop that is farthest from you.
Leave a long tail at the beginning of the chain.
17 ch
R1: 2 sc, 12 hdc, 2 sc [16]
R2-18: 1 ch, turn, 2 sc, 12 hdc, 2 sc [16]
R19: 1 ch, turn, 16 sc [16]
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail.
We are going to place the eyes, look at your rectangle with the beginning and end tails upward so we know that's the top, the first eye will be between R8-9 and the second one between R11-12, counting 9 stitches from the the top (where the tails are) you'll place them between the 9th and 10th stitch.
Now, with the tail from the end, sew together the starting chain and last row. Once we've done that, we are going to close the bottom gap. For that we'll need to weave the tail all around going into every other row, pull to close. If there is still a small hole after closure don't worry, it doesn't matter. Secure this thread and hide it.
Stuff the piece nicely but not too much, and then with the tail we have left close the top gap as we did for the bottom.
FACE DETAILS:
With pink yarn make some rosy cheeks below the eyes, the placement is up to you but keep an eye on their alignment.
With black embroidery thread make a small mouth, again, the placement is up to you but you want it to be centered between the eyes.
With pink yarn make some rosy cheeks below the eyes, the placement is up to you but keep an eye on their alignment.
With black embroidery thread make a small mouth, again, the placement is up to you but you want it to be centered between the eyes.
LEAF:
Leave a long tail when starting the magic ring.
R1: 5 sc in mr, sl st to first st to close ring but making the long tail from the start come out to the outside of the work
R2: (3 ch, 1 sl st on ch, 1 sc on ch, 1 sl st on next st of mr) x5
Cut yarn leaving some for sewing.
To make the stem insert the hook in the very center of the ring and pull it out where the beginning tail comes out, pull the tail through and chain 4, then make a sl st into each chain.
To finish use a tapestry needle to pull the ending tail through the middle of the ring and secure it on the inside of the leaf.
Sew the leaf to the top of the head.
You can now sew the head to the body so rest the head on the body and find the position you like, then sew it in place.
Leave a long tail when starting the magic ring.
R1: 5 sc in mr, sl st to first st to close ring but making the long tail from the start come out to the outside of the work
R2: (3 ch, 1 sl st on ch, 1 sc on ch, 1 sl st on next st of mr) x5
Cut yarn leaving some for sewing.
To make the stem insert the hook in the very center of the ring and pull it out where the beginning tail comes out, pull the tail through and chain 4, then make a sl st into each chain.
To finish use a tapestry needle to pull the ending tail through the middle of the ring and secure it on the inside of the leaf.
Sew the leaf to the top of the head.
You can now sew the head to the body so rest the head on the body and find the position you like, then sew it in place.
SCARF:
5 ch
R1: start on 3rd chain from hook, 3 hdc [3]
R2-35: 2 ch, turn, 3 hdc [3]
You can adjust the length to your liking by making more or less rows.
Cut the yarn. Hide the ends.
5 ch
R1: start on 3rd chain from hook, 3 hdc [3]
R2-35: 2 ch, turn, 3 hdc [3]
You can adjust the length to your liking by making more or less rows.
Cut the yarn. Hide the ends.
How to crochet Pepo the Pumpkin Pal on youtube:
Join me:
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hisheepok
Pinterest https://pinterest.com/hisheepok
If you have any questions or thoughts do not hesitate to leave a comment.
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not post this pattern to your website or blog, instead post a link to https://hisheepok.blogspot.com/2024/09/pepo-pumpkin-pal.html
If
you post a photo of the amigurumi made with this pattern in the web I
would appreciate it if you tag me, I'm @hisheepok, use the hashtag
#hisheepok or put a link to my blog.
No comments:
Post a Comment